A fresh, green lawn can instantly improve your yard, but (whomp-whomp) laying sod isn’t as simple as rolling it out and hoping for the best. Sod is a living thing, and improper prep can cause it to dry out, shift, or even die before it takes root. From planning the installation to committing to watering schedules, we hope these tips help you avoid the most common pitfalls.
Prep the Ground So Your Sod Can Root
Skipping or rushing through soil preparation work is the #1 reason sod fails. Get all of this work done so you have finished soil before your sod delivery arrives. Just like planting traditional grass seed, if the ground isn’t ready, the grass roots won’t take. When the roots fail, you’ll be left with brown patches or entire sections of grass that won’t last.
- Clear everything out. Remove all existing grass, weeds, and debris. Yes, we mean everything. Leaving anything behind can block roots from growing into the soil surface.
- Don’t leave compacted soil. Soil structure matters. If the dirt is packed down, sod roots will struggle to grow. While a core aerator is a common solution for lawn aeration, to prep soil for sod, you'll need to go the extra mile. Use a rototiller or garden rake and really loosen the top 2-3 inches of soil. If water pools on the surface instead of soaking in, the soil is too compacted.
- Level it out. Low spots collect water, leading to soggy, dead grass. High spots dry out too fast. Fill low spots with soil and rake the soil until it’s a smooth, level surface.
- Test and fix your soil. Poor soil = weak sod. If your soil's too sandy, it won’t hold moisture. If it’s clay-heavy, it will stay too wet. Adding organic matter, like compost, or topsoil can improve texture and nutrients. A simple pH soil test kit will tell you if your yard needs soil amendments, or you can take a soil sample to your local county extension office and in most cases they'll test it for free.
- Water before laying sod pieces, but don’t flood it. On the day of delivery, the ground should be damp, like a wrung-out sponge. If it's too dry, sod won’t root well; if it’s too wet, roots can rot.
Lay Sod the Right Way to Prevent Gaps and Dry Spots
Once you start sod installation, things move fast. We hope you cleared your calendar. The key is working efficiently while making sure every piece makes solid contact with the soil. Ready, set, go!
- Start along a straight edge for the sod roll. Pick a sidewalk, driveway, or fence as your starting point. This helps keep rows straight.
- Work row by row, in a brick-like pattern. Stagger the rolls of sod so they don’t line up. If seams are in straight lines, they can dry out and pull apart.
- Press down as you go. Gently push down each piece of sod to remove air pockets. Gaps underneath can cause the layer of grass to dry out faster. Sod staples can help if your terrain is difficult.
- No overlapping, no gaps. Pieces should fit snugly together but not overlap. Overlapping leads to uneven rooting, and gaps let the edges dry out.
- Trim with care. Use a sharp knife, box cutter, sod cutter, utility knife, or some kind of sharp blade to cut around curves, trees, or flower beds. Jagged or torn edges dry out faster than clean cuts.
- Roll it down. A lawn roller (or sod roller, even a plate compactor) helps improve soil contact, improving the chances of root development and preventing air pockets.
Watering and Aftercare: The Make-or-Break Stage
Even perfectly laid sod will die with improper watering in the days after installation. Too much or too little water can cause major problems to your landscape.
- Water sod immediately. And we mean immediately. As soon as you finish laying sod, give it a deep watering. The water should soak through the sod and into the soil below. Generous watering... Deep soak!
- Follow a strict watering schedule for the first few weeks:
- Days 1-3: Caring for your sod becomes life, depending on square feet, of course. Water sod 3-4 times a day for 10-15 minutes per session. The goal during this heavy watering period is to keep the sod constantly moist but not flooded.
- Days 4-14: Water twice a day for 15-20 minutes per session. The roots are starting to grow but still need consistent moisture.
- Week 3 and beyond: Water once a day, then slowly taper off to your regular lawn watering schedule (about 1-1.5 inches of water per week). There comes a fine line with "too much" and "too little" watering. A dry lawn on days 1-3 is bad, but a soggy sod lawn on week 3 is also not good.
- Don’t mow too soon. Sod needs at least 2-3 weeks before the first mow. Let it get a little height. If you mow before the roots take hold, you risk pulling up the edges of sod. When you do mow, set your mower blade to the highest setting and only take off the top third of the grass.
- Stay off the grass. A.K.A. "Hey, Kids! Get Off My Lawn!" Heavy foot traffic in the first few weeks can shift sod out of place before it forms strong roots. Avoid walking on it as much as possible.
- Watch for dry spots. If certain areas look dry or brown, they might not be getting enough water. Adjust sprinklers or hand-water dry patches.
FAQ
What’s the best time of year to lay sod?
The best time to lay sod is in spring or early fall when temperatures are mild. Summer heat dries out sod too quickly, and it's harder to keep up with proper watering requirements. If you insist on laying sod in summer, be extra diligent about watering so you don't compromise your new, beautiful lawn.
Why is my sod turning yellow?
Yellowing sod usually means it's either getting too much water or not enough. If it's soggy, cut back on watering. If it's dry and curling at the edges, increase water and correct curling with the help of sod staples. It could also be a sign that the soil lacks nutrients for the type of grass you installed—try adding a starter fertilizer designed for new sod.
